Sugaring Off! What To Do With... Maple Syrup

Last Spring, we spent Easter in Montreal with my in-laws. It was my first opportunity to experience a rich Quebec tradition: a visit to the cabane au sucre (literally means: sugar cabin). This activity is also known as, “Sugaring Off.” It is that glorious time of year when the sun shines a little bit longer each day, the snow starts to melt away and the farmers tap their maple trees to siphon off that glorious sap that is transformed into the wonderfully sweet amber maple syrup.



Be warned, the point of cabane au sucre is to eat. A LOT. And sometimes, the cabane is enlivened with a certain amount of alcohol, and local music too. My advice to you: Wear loose elastic waistband pants, pace yourself then dive right in. The cabane is a multi-course extravaganza showcasing two of Quebec's agricultural darlings: pork and maple syrup.

Our cabane was located on a picturesque farm set along rolling hills blanketed by thick white snow in rural Quebec. The cabane itself is a large hall with long communal tables. It was still early in the day but there is a buzz in the room with chattering patrons, clanging dishes and a small army of cooks banging out one dish after another.

We purchased our tickets, as soon as we sat down at our table, the parade of food began. Our meal kicked off with a large bowl of thick pea soup. It was dark pea green flecked with yellow lentils in a rich, flavourful broth. I was just about to reach for a second bowl when my husband (my fiance at the time) shook his head and told me pace myself. A large greasy platter filled with assorted ham, and sausages with little dinner rolls showed up at our table next. I sat out this round. (I don’t eat pork - it’s a long story but involves childhood “incident.”) Then came a plate of starchy white potatoes to soak up the eggs stirred in warmed syrup. (Yes, you read that correctly... eggs cooked in syrup.) Now, that may sound unappetizing, and in fact, my husband didn’t have a taste for it. But I found it unique, interesting and different: strands of eggs whisked through thick boiling maple syrup. It's not for everyone, but I like eggs and I like maple syrup so it worked for me. Of course, no cabane au sucre breakfast would be complete without baked beans simmered in maple syrup. They were tender and sweet but not cloying. Last but not least, we capped the meal off with the grand marshal of the food parade, dessert. First, a grand-pere (literally means grandfather), a deep fried sweetened dough similar to a funnel cake doused with glorious maple syrup. Then last but not least, the most classic of Quebec desserts: the fabulous yet simple tarte au sucre. Think pecan pie or butter tart without the pecans or the raisins. It's a smooth and creamy, reminscent of a soft fudge with a crisp, shattering crust. I groaned my way through the final bites, but man, it was good. Decadent but good.

I left the sugar shack with a full belly, wishing I had worn pants with an elastic waistband. But there was one thing left to do... maple taffy. As we left the cabane, one of the farm hands had just filled a large wooden tray with pristine white snow. He poured maple syrup into the pristine white snow and all the kids (including the kids at heart) lined up to wrap the hardening syrup around a Popsicle stick and to enjoy maple syrup one last time.

While a tour around the property is a must, if you're with children, they will likely insist a sleigh ride on the farm's horses...



I didn't need to "sugar off" to develop an appreciation for the beauty of maple syrup. It has a delicious and deep flavour that I like to use in place of brown sugar. While it is a natural pairing for pancakes, I think maple syrup is far more versatile than that.

I have added maple syrup to roast squash (it pairs so nicely) when I make this squash and pumpkin bisque. I also add a tablespoon or more... when I make breakfast turkey patties. It tastes fabulous as the sweetener to home-made granola (in place of honey or brown sugar) and I have even heard of it as a replacement for sugar in coffee. (um, different)

My husband has been in charge of weekday dinners lately and he has found a way to make use of maple syrup and sweet potatoes. This is recipe is a welcome departure from the usual starches - rice, potatoes, pasta....

Maple Roasted Sweet Potatoes

2.5lbs sweet potatoes (peeled and cut into chunks)
1/4c maple syrup
3 tbsp vegetable oil

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Toss sweet potatoes, brown sugar and vegetable oil together. Tumble into an ovenproof dish. Roast for 25-30 minutes until edges are crisp and the sugar has caramelized.

*We visited Cabane Au Sucre Bernard Duquette just outside of Montreal.

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What To Do with…. Nutmeg

After sweet, intoxicating and ubiquitous cinnamon, nutmeg is easily one of my favourite spices. It’s warm, exotic, and faintly sweet. Nutmeg evokes images of passing lazy days slung in a hammock under the warm Caribbean sun with a Hemingway novel in one hand and a rum drink within arm's reach of the other.

Nutmeg is mocha-brown and slightly larger than an unshelled hazelnut (or filbert) with a slightly ridged surface. This ovum-shape seed falls from an evergreen found in the Caribbean as well as parts of Indonesia and India. These little nuggets pack a powerful, fragrant punch that enlivens both sweet and savoury dishes. Even the smallest dusting can be transformational.

Nutmeg is sold as the whole nut and in powder form, however purchasing the whole nut is infinitely better. If you think nutmeg is abit pricey compared to other herbs and spices, just remember it will last a very long time if well stored. (I have read that spices should only be stored for up to 2 years, however, my stash of nutmeg is going on five years. And perhaps it is true, that it is not as potent as it was way back then, I have not seen any signs that my nutmeg has become rancid or otherwise inedible. The fragrance is still magical and potent after all this time.) However, I would recommend purchasing the whole seed for it ensures that you are not paying for “filler” product as well as it prolongs the potency of the spice. (This advice also applies for other types of herbs and spices. Whole, where possible, is usually better.) While there are specialized graters for this purpose, they are really not necessary. I use a micro-plane grater to scrape off what I need. (The micro-plane grater is easily one of the most important tools in my kitchen, I use it to zest citrus fruits, and shave Parmesan or nutmeg.) If you don’t have a micro-plane rasp, you can use the finest side of a multi-sided grater. (It may be less smooth depending on how sharp your grater is, so please be careful.)

Unfortunately however, most people's relationship with nutmeg goes as far as the seasonal drink, eggnog. While nutmeg and eggs are a natural match, it extends far beyond the holiday drink. Nutmeg compliments eggs both in a sweet and savoury sense. Nutmeg tastes great in other egg-based dishes such as crème brulee, cheese soufflés, and scrambled eggs.

Nutmeg is also a natural pair for the king of spices, cinnamon. In my kitchen, nutmeg tends to follow cinnamon in my baking creations. Nutmeg often makes its way into my apple and cinnamon dishes including pies, muffins and crisps.

Nutmeg makes an unexpected but welcome appearance in these gourgères (cheese puffs). It subtly enhances the nutty flavour of the cheese and of course, the eggs. Admittedly, I had been intimated by gougères for the longest time... making a choux pastry and then piping them out, and hoping that they turn out airy and light.... sounds little fussy and potentially a world of let-down, doesn't it? (Thoughts of the acrid smell of burning butter and flour drift across my mind...) But I watched a friend pipe and bake them at a dinner party recently, I was amazed how quickly they came together. Inspired by the simplicity of making gougeres, I went home and tried out several recipes from my collection of cookbooks. It seemed to me the combinations were universal: 1 c flour, 4 eggs, 1 stick of butter (1/4c), a quantity of Gruyere or Emmenthal, a pinch of spice and a strong arm. In fact, my first batch, came pretty close to perfect. (What? Yes, it's true.) And subsequent batches? Even better... (No exaggeration.) Now, these gougeres make a regular appearance as a pre-dinner bite when we have have guests. I can whip them out like no one's business.

Admittedly, I like it when my food gets attention.... (I do write a food blog... ) But I relish the look of delight and surprise on my dear guests' faces when the puffs emerge from the hot oven and tumble onto a large platter. Make these and your friends will be in awe of your culinary prowess as you have mastered choux pastry. Of course, you don't have to tell them how easy they are to make. That's a secret we'll keep between you and me.




I found this recipe in one of my favourite cookbooks, The Gourmet Magazine Cookbook. (TGMC is a very excellent cookbook, by the way, that is, if you can manage to purchase a cookbook without the requisite food porn. It is a compendium of well-tested, no fail recipes ranging from the most basic to the rather complicated. Sadly, the only photo in the 1,000 page cookbook is of Gourmet Magazine's editor-in-chief, Ruth Reichel, located on the back flap of the jacket cover! Ruth's awesome, but I like to be inspired by gorgeous photos of delicious dishes I may have overlooked if not for a beautifully shot photograph.)

There are many gougère recipes out there and I have seen then call for a pinch of cayenne pepper instead of nutmeg, I’ve had them both ways and prefer the nutmeg. Also, I have found this recipe incredibly easy and concise. I have upped the salt on this a tiny bit, just to boost the flavour a little bit. But other than that, the recipe is easy to follow but requires a strong arm or a stand mixer.

Gougères (Cheese Puffs)



Makes approximately 4 1/2 dozen

1 cup water
1 stick butter, cut into large chunks
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup all purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 ¼ cup finely grated Emmenthal cheese
2 tbsp finely grated Parmesan Reggiano
¼ tsp nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Position 1 rack in top third and 1 rack in bottom third of oven; preheat to 400°F. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
Bring 1 cup water, butter, and salt to simmer in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Once butter has melted, add flour all at once. With a wooden spoon, stir firmly and quickly until the flour absorbs liquid and forms a ball. (It will be stuck around your spoon, pulled away from sides of saucepan.) Continue to stir for another minute or so to absorb addition moisture from the dough. Remove pan from heat; cool dough 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the eggs 1 at a time until the dough incorporates the egg and it becomes sticky and glossy before adding another egg. Stir in cheeses, nutmeg and pepper.

To prepare for baking – you can scoop the dough into a pastry bag or a Ziploc bag and pipe into tiny mounds. (I prefer the latter especially if you’re going to make this ahead. You can keep the dough in the fridge until your guests arrive. Then snip one of the bottom corners of the bag and pipe.) Alternatively, you can scoop the dough with two spoons. Once complete, I wet the bottom of the spoon to smooth out the mound and make it as round as possible.


Bake gougères for fifteen minutes, then reverse the positions of the pans. Bake for another 15 minutes until the gougères are light and golden. Serve immediately.

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What To Do With…. Egg Yolks

I know that I am not the only one who has been in this situation: You've found a great recipe but it only requires part of the egg. You need the yolks but not the whites, or you need the whites but not the yolks. So what becomes of the unwanted half? You could throw them away or you could find a simple recipe to make use of them....

In my survey of one (me), I have found that it is infinitely easier to find a delicious end for those egg whites. One could easily whip them up into a tall fluffy meringue or a 2 minute egg white omelet. But yolks? Hmm... Who has a yolk omelet?

This weekend, I made macaroons from a recipe that required three egg whites but that left me with three orphaned egg yolks. Of course, there are delicious uses for orphaned egg yolks such as a buttery hollandaise or a creamy custard base for a delicious salted caramel ice cream. But neither of those options appealed to me because they created more work rather than solved my immediate culinary dilemma.(Just because I love to cook and enjoy the time I spend in my kitchen doesn't mean I want to spend all weekend there. Hence, the temptation to throw orphaned yolks out.)

To be honest, I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do with them until I peered into my fridge and I found my answer in the crisper...

This recipe involves juicing the lemon/lime and takes about 10 minutes of whisking and that's it. You don't need to use it immediately, but it should probably be eaten within a week.




Lemon-Lime Curd

1 lemon juiced
1 lime juiced
3 egg yolks (you may need another yolk if you need to have a thicker curd)
6-8 tbsp sugar (separated) or more to taste (if you prefer a sweeter curd, add ½c to ¾c sugar)
4 tbsp butter, separated

1. Over a pot of boiling water, set a metal mixing bowl over top. Pour the juice into the bowl, add yolks and whisk continuously. Add sugar tablespoon by tablespoon, if you like it abit tart. Check for sweetness. Add as much or as little based on your preference.
2. Add butter 1 tbsp at a time. Whisk until well incorporated.
3. Lemon curd should be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
4. Pour into a clean container and refrigerate.

Lemon curd may be smeared on scones, or toast. Alternatively, lemon curd may be used in desserts.

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What To Do With... Avocado

There are few foods that rival the utter joy of diving into a buttery, creamy avocado. It is both sinful (oh those calories...) and sublime. It is a study in contradictions in nature being both fruit and fat.

The ripe avocado is a bit of a diva. To enjoy one, it requires a little forethought and planning. Usually sold rock hard and too unripe to eat immediately, the avocado must be coaxed into ripening by sitting at room temperature on your kitchen counter for at least a day or two. An avocado at its peak, is utterly brilliant, but forget about it for an extra day or two and the avocado fades into a squishy, unpleasant mess. Even at its peak, this diva doesn’t travel well (she's a fragile little thing) and once exposed to air quickly turn an unappetizing brown. This diva waits for no one.

How do you know when an avocado is ripe?

Give it the slightest squeeze and if the flesh underneath the skin yields, it's ready to eat.

How to cut an avocado (safely)

To reveal an avocado’s fruit, work your way around the avocado with a sharp knife, its globe-like pit marks its center as illustrated below:



Once you have made your way around the avocado once, twist and gently pull apart one half from the other. Its bright yellow flesh is revealed. A ripe avocado is yielding but not mushy and mellow yellow that fades into a pale green the close you get to the skin. To remove the pit, lean your sharp knife into the pit, until the knife is wedged into it. Twist your knife slightly, and the pit should pop right out:



To cut the avocado into pieces, run your knife across the avocado in length wise, then cross-wise. To remove, take a large spoon and scoop out the flesh out:



Prepare an avocado only as you need it... It's beautiful yellow and green flesh quickly gives way to an unappetizing though edible brown.

Outside of guacamole, here is one thing I that really like to do with avocado:



Avocado milkshake: Perhaps it may seem unusual to see something normally associated with savoury food served as a sweet. But this is quite popular in Asia and your local Vietnamese restaurant probably has one on the menu. (I drank plenty of these while backpacking through Asia and there are few things as refreshing as that cold, creamy, green milkshake.) It is easily one of my favourite things to sip on in the summer. If you open your mind to trying it, I guarantee you won't be disappointed. It's velvety, creamy, sweet and distinctly avocado.

Traditionally avocado milkshakes are made with condensed milk. To make it with ingredients you already have on hand at home, take: 1 ripe avocado, 1.5 c milk, 1 tsp vanilla extract. Add ice if you like it extra cold (reduce the milk.) Blend until smooth. Add additional milk to loosen, if necessary. Serve immediately. If you really want to do it local style, consider a shot of espresso (or Vietnamese coffee if you can get your hands on it.) This drink is really quite special.
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What To Do With... Celeriac

How would I describe this vegetable to someone who had never seen one before? Knobby? Gnarly? Ugly? Hmmm. Not exactly a ringing endorsement. How about delicious? Fresh? Delicately-flavoured? The more I thought about this neglected tuber, the more I realized Celeriac needs a publicist or better still, an agent. Celeriac needs someone who can help it cultivate a reputation for being delectable, versatile and easy to work with.

Sure, Celeriac isn’t the darling of the vegetable world (yet) and that’s okay. But certainly it is destined to feature in more than French bistro favourite, celeriac remoulade. It doesn’t have to be a niche vegetable, as it can be integrated into everyday meals and has far greater range than you might expect.

As I have gotten to know Celeriac over several meals together, I have really come to enjoy this time. In fact, it came to remind me of one of Canadian literature's most beloved characters, Dunstan Ramsey, from the novel, Fifth Business, by Robertson Davies. (Mandatory high school English Lit around these parts. In my mind, it is a shining example of the Canadian literature at its best.)

The main protagonist, Dunstan Ramsay, is a headmaster of an elite Canadian boys school, who reflects upon a life lived. As he tells his story, he comes to realize that he is Fifth Business, referring to a plot device who isn’t a main character but essential for plot progression.

Anyway, it’s a food blog and not an English essay so I will get to the point. In food terms, celeriac is Fifth Business. It is a great supporting cast member in many a meal, perhaps making an appearance as part of an appetizer or soup course or as a great side to a main.

Celeriac is generally easy to find at the grocery store (of course, this varies depending on where you are reading this), and is deceptively easy to cook. Celeriac has an incredible but mellow flavour, too. Being related to celery, it carries the familiar faint aroma of that childhood snack. It tastes clean and crisp but unlike it’s school yard counterpart, celeriac can be filling and substantive with a texture similar to potatoes (when cooked.)

Celeriac, I am a fan. If you’re looking for an agent, call me. I could be the Jerry Maguire to your Rod Tidwell. We’ll do lunch or dinner…



A note on produce selection: When buying celeriac, phalange-like roots are okay. Pick up the celeriac. It should feel sizable and firm but not heavy for it’s size. It will be a little dirty and there should be limited spots of green on the vegetable. Check the ends for white mould, and if it feels soft or wrinkled, put it back down. It’s old.

To prep celeriac: Carefully peel the celeriac with a sharp knife. If you think this is going to take a little bit of time, prepare a bowl of acidulated water (add lemon juice to a bowl of water), and drop chunks of celeriac as you go along to prevent it from browning.

Here are a couple of things you can do with celeriac:

1. Roast root vegetables with duck fat– celeriac, carrots, turnips, Swedes (rutabagas), and potatoes. Peel vegetables and cut into large chunks. Cook potatoes, swedes and celeriac for ten minutes, until it’s mostly tender. Drain well. Toss vegetables (parboiled and raw) with (brace yourself) a tablespoon or two of duck fat. Sprinkle with salt and toss well to coat evenly. Roast in a 425 degree oven for about 45 minutes. After about 25 minutes, remove from oven and give them vegetables a flip. Resist the urge to flip them more than once so that the outside develops a nice golden crusty exterior with a soft fluffy interior.

(Yes, you read that right. Duck fat. Yes, artery clogging glorious luscious animal fat. I know I have said this before, but you’re going to have to trust me on this one. Duck fat lends an incredibly rich, complex but subtle flavour. Even if you don’t like duck, you still may like duck fat. It’s absolutely delicious. Save the fat next time you roast off a duck, or if you’re like me, just ask your butcher.)

2. Celeriac remoulade- the classic French bistro preparation – so easy to do at home: Peel celeriac and julienne 1 medium sized celeriac. Toss gently with lemon juice. Mix 1/2c mayonnaise, 1/3c to 1/2c light sour cream. (I have seen some recipes with a full cup of mayo, I am substituting to lighten the dish) with 3 cornichons, diced finely, 1 tbsp of capers (here’s another use for capers if you need a refresher), and 1 tbsp of grainy mustard (we have one with a bit of horseradish and it’s nice.) Add a pinch of salt and pepper, toss with celeriac and garnish with about 1-2 tbsp of chopped parsley. Taste and adjust seasonings and serve.

3. Mashed celeriac (like mashed potatoes) – peel celeriac and cut into large chunks. Cook in a large pot with lightly salted water until fork tender. Drain well. Add 1/2c warmed milk, 2 tbsp of butter, salt and pepper and mash well.

4. Cream of Celeriac Soup - peel celeriac and cut into large chunks. In a large dutch oven, melt 2 tbsp of butter, once the butter has melted, tumble in celeriac. Cook until celeriac is soft and the edges are golden. Add 1 liter of chicken stock and 1 tsp of celery salt. Turn down heat to medium-low and cover. Cook until tender (about 15-20 minutes). Carefully blend until all the soup is smooth and free of chunks. Stir in 1/2 c of cream (or evaporated milk if you're cutting the calories.) Adjust seasoning and serve.

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What To Do With... Salmon

Note: I just wanted to say "welcome" to Noble Pig readers - I received an honourable mention in the Superbowl recipe contest (over 1,000 submissions for the contest, so I am grateful for the mention. The recipe for the chili can be found here.)




I like fish a lot, I especially like it raw. In fact, sushi is one easily one of my favourite things. It’s the epitome of natural food: fresh, clean-tasting, and simple.

In this fine city, we have had an unfortunate proliferation of sushi restaurants which has lowered the quality of what passes for sushi around here. You can get sushi anywhere: at the grocery store and everyone and their brother has a sushi restaurant. But prepared in the traditional way,

sushi should be perfectly carved fish, delicately placed upon a petite mound of fresh moist sushi rice. By contrast, a fast food sushi restaurant or a sushi buffet seems like a contradiction. In Masaharu Morimoto's coffee table cookbook, The Art of Japanese Cooking, he discusses the long road to becoming a true sushi chef. Years of perfecting the art of making rice and honing knife skills before a sushi apprentice is allowed to even touch fish. This kind of patience and search for utter perfection is admirable, and is far from the fast food sushi that has become so prevasive. (I also wonder in this day of immediate gratification, how many people really embark on this long journey to sushi master.) This is one meal I never make at home because I really enjoy the pleasure of eating sushi prepared in a traditional way.

Since I don't make my own sushi I haven't presented sushi recipes for you, but here are three ways I like to eat salmon (both raw and cooked.) Enjoy!


Gravlax:

1 side of salmon (the freshest possible) about 3 lbs, 1 bunch of dill, approximately 1/4c white sugar, 1/2c salt, 3 tbsp black pepper

1. Wash fish well. Pat dry
2. Mix sugar, salt, black pepper
3. Liberally apply to flesh of fish
4. Wash and chop dill. Spread on top of fish (again flesh side)
5. Wrap fish well (that means tightly) with Glad Wrap
6. Place in a shallow glass/ceramic baking dish. Place a plate and a weight (a brick, large can, etc.) on top
7. Refrigerate. Every 12 hours or so, flip the fish over and continue to weight it down. You’ll notice the fish exudes liquid. This is a good sign. This process should take about 3 days or so
8. Remove fish from fridge, gently scrap off dill and salt/sugar mixture. Do not rinse.
9. Thinly slice fish and serve
10. Keep wrapped in fresh Glad wrap if you’re not using it all at once. It should keep for another 3 days or so

I usually serve this with poached eggs and hollandaise or in a bagel with cream cheese. Or you anyway you would eat smoked salmon (tossed in pasta, canapes, etc.)

Salmon Tartare:

Serves 4 as appetizers

Finely dice 2 fillets of fresh salmon. Snip about 4 tiny stalks of chive (do not substitute green onion)over top and toss gently with a small amount of sea salt and black pepper. Finely dice 1 avocado, squeeze half a lemon over the avocado. Plate tartare starting with the salmon using a ring mold, followed by the avocado. Carefully remove the ring and serve immediately.


But salmon is something I also enjoy cooked. Salmon is a fish that is moist and tender and best served slightly under done. Trust me. I love the contrast in texture and flavour: crusty and golden on the outside with a moist coral-coloured interior.


One of the best ways to cook a fillet of salmon is to crust it with sesame seeds. But be warned, if you want salmon perfection, this does require your full attention. I am normally all for multi-tasking, but please don’t read your mail, answer the phone, or anything else you might do when you’re making dinner. A focused ten minutes on this. That’s all I ask. Bon Appetit!

Sesame Encrusted Salmon:

Serves 2

4-5 tbsp white sesame seeds
1 tbsp black sesame seeds (if you don’t have it, just add more white sesame seeds)
2 fillets of salmon – washed, and patted dry
2 tbsp vegetable oil/ light olive oil

1. Heat a large pan on medium heat. Add vegetable oil
2. Ensure the salmon is patted dry. Press the fish flesh-side down onto a plate of sesame seeds. Press firmly to ensure that the flesh is well covered
3. Drop 1 sesame seed into the heated pan. If it sizzles, place fillets sesame seed side down onto the pan.

Your fish should look like the picture above... Mostly cooked but with a cool center. In the photo above, I have served the salmon with a simple miso-umeboshi plum sauce.

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What To Do With…. Fennel Seeds

Candy Spelling and I might be kindred spirits. The gossip mags tell me that Tori Spelling's mother has a wee bit of a problem. A shopping problem. I have one, too...when it comes to food. My husband can attest to this: We have a two drawers full of kitchen gadgets, a freezer full of summertime pesto, organic beef, and sustainable fish and a pantry full of grains and rices. But what I am most proud of is a cupboard filled with spices and herbs, sorted by regional cuisine. Because in what crazy world does sumac sit beside herbs de provence? :)

The most recent addition to my spice cabinet is a package of fennel seeds. My experience with fennel seeds is rather limited, while I have tasted fennel seeds in sausages and I have munched on them as I exited many an Indian restaurant, but I have never cooked with them. So I wasn’t really sure what I could do with them. Normally, when this happens,

I head downstairs and check my handy dandy reference guide, Culinary Artistry.

This book is a foodie's dream. It is organized by ingredient and provides a list of complementary flavours. If that wasn't enough, there are recipes from some of the world's most celebrated chefs to inspire you to the kitchen. There were two entries for fennel - one for the vegetable and one for the seed. Vegetable or seed - fennel does marry nicely with oranges, poultry, cabbage, and figs. I have listed somethings I would do with the seeds.

To extract the most flavour from them, toast and crush them to release their fragrance.



What To Do With... Fennel Seeds

1. Apple/Chicken Breakfast sausage patties - since I don't eat pork - I am always on the look out for breakfast "meat" substitutes. 1 lb ground chicken, 1 green apple grated, 1 tsp of crushed fennel seeds, 1 tsp maple syrup, 1/2 tsp celery salt, 1/2 tsp each of salt and pepper, 1 beaten egg. Form into small patties about 2 tablespoons worth. Fry over medium heat until done. (Could also be baked.)

2. Roasted carrots -(about 4 carrots, peeled and sliced into coins) with tossed 1 tbsp of orange juice with 1 tsp of toasted and crushed fennel seeds

3. Orange and Fennel Seed cookies – I just received this recipe from Martha Stewart’s Cookie of the Day feature this week. And it's a keeper. This recipe calls for aniseed, which is similar but different from fennel seed. So it was a perfect opportunity to test out this recipe. These cookies were absolutely delicious even with my few adjustments. (I processed the fennel seeds with the almonds to ensure they are super-fine and they took longer than 12 minutes to bake.)



We ate these very quickly. :(

4. Braised fennel - slice the vegetable fennel, white wine, onions, butter and fennel seeds. See #6

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What To Do With….. Turkey Leftovers

We just spent this past weekend with my husband’s parents in Montreal to celebrate an early Christmas. (We are spending Christmas day in Toronto with my brother and parents.) Our trips to Montreal are characterized by massive amounts of delicious, full flavour foods and quiet relaxation on the West Island. This trip was no exception. While it was blistery cold outside, we indulged in fabulous meal after glorious meal of French-Canadian delights as well as some of my mother-in-law’s other tried and true Christmas time dishes. In between our noshing and nibbling marathon, we did a little sight seeing in la belle province. For this wintery visit, we drove down to Quebec’s Eastern Townships to enjoy an afternoon of sight-seeing, exploring and antiquing.

The Eastern Townships are located south-east of Montreal nestled in the foothills of the Appalachians near the border of the north-eastern U.S. states of Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. Its settlement by English Loyalists over two centuries ago has left an indelible mark on the Townships where English is widely spoken and expressed through the region’s architecture. Still the Townships are very much a part of Quebec. Driving through south-eastern Quebec is like driving through a picture on a postcard as fir trees, their boughs heavy with pristine white snow, line undulating country roads guiding drivers through the Townships’ villages, ski hills and cottages. We drive past communities whose populations ebb and flow with the seasons, swelling in the summer with the arrival of cottagers and tourists and contracting when the days grow shorter. In the winter, the population swells again when the snow lures skiers to the Townships’ powdery hills. On the day of our visit to the town of Knowlton, near Lac Brome, the community seemed serene and quiet, with only a handful of locals and the occasional tourist peeking into shops and visiting the antique dealers.

Daylight was limited and we decided to have a quick lunch in order to catch another tourist stop before the sun quit for the day. We popped into a Quebec hamburger franchise, Valentine. As I walked through the door, it was like stepping in a time machine to an eighties fast food restaurant. The tiny restaurant was brightly lit in its canary yellow and cherry red furniture. Christmas garland and ornaments hung along the walls and a large Christmas tree tucked into the corner by the window.

I ordered the Valentine burger which was about the size as a McDonald’s hamburger but significantly meatier and loaded with fresh toppings. It was such a memorable little place, not because the food per se, but it seemed like the restaurant, its patrons and employees had been frozen in time. It was a time where fast food restaurant served hot coffee in mugs and employees gladly came around with free refills. It was a time where big burly grey-haired grandfathers took their young grandsons for a cheeky afternoon meal which would surely spoil supper that evening. We don’t see that anymore in our world of conglomerate fast food restaurants where everything is rehydrated, frozen and pre-made.


My nostalgia set me up for our next stop along our whirlwind tour of the Townships was the Notre-Dame de Stanbridge covered bridge. The first covered bridge built in 1848, it has since been replaced but it stands as a reminder of a time gone by. Now the bridge sits out on a lonely road with a cattle farm on one side and abandoned dining room and motel on the other. The light was fleeting and the temperature had dropped significantly at this point. We stopped for a couple of quick photos before hopping back to the warmth of our car.

The highlight of our weekend was our Christmas dinner where we celebrated the holiday with a twelve pound grain-fed turkey. As I have mentioned previously, roasted turkey is probably one of my favourite meals, mainly because I love the rituals surrounding the meal – the gathering and celebration of family. Of course, a turkey feast for four, means plenty of leftovers and there are only so many turkey sandwiches you can eat before growing tired of the bird.

Happy holidays to MKF readers. May your holidays be filled with joy, happiness with friends and family and an abundance of great food.

What To Do With... Leftover Turkey

When I was growing up, my mom would make fried rice and noodle soup with our leftovers, those are still some of my favourite ways to use roasted turkey.

1. Turkey noodle soup – this is great for the bits of turkey that lurk around the bones (wings, and legs), long after the white breast meat is gone. (Use the bones to enrich the soup, but you may need additional help, so I often use chicken stock as well.)

2. Turkey Rillettes – shred meat finely (about a cup or so) and slowly simmer with a half cup of white wine, a garlic clove minced, 2 tablespoons of butter, salt and pepper to taste (you may also want to add some of the spices you used when roasting the turkey. I like to use celery seeds, a dash of smoked paprika, and thyme.) When most of the liquid has been absorbed, pack into ramekins, cool and refrigerate before serving.

3. Mango turkey salad over glass noodles – Serve this layered salad of 2 c of shredded turkey for chicken, 2 c of diced mangoes, handful of beanspouts, chopped cilantro over fine slippery glass noodles. Make a vinaigrette from the juice of 1 lime, 1/4c light soy sauce, 1 tsp of sambal olek, 2 tbsp of nam pla (fish sauce) and 2 tbsp of sesame oil. Pour over top and garnish with toasted peanuts or cashews.

4. Breakfast Frittata – 6 eggs, half a red bell pepper diced, ½ large onion diced, 1 cup of diced or shredded turkey, ½ mozzarella or cheddar cheese – heat pan over medium heat and sauté bell pepper and onion in butter until softened. Crack eggs, add salt and pepper and spices and beat in a large bowl. Once the vegetables are cooked, pour eggs over top. Quickly give the eggs and vegetables a stir to move around the egg mixture slightly. (Take care here because you’re not making scrambled eggs which is equally as nice but not the intent.) Sprinkle the turkey over top, then the cheese. Allow the eggs to continue to set. Meanwhile, set your oven’s broiler to medium/high. After about five minutes or so when the eggs have mostly cooked through, place the pan under the broiler until the cheese is bubbly and golden.

5. Turkey congee – a very Chinese way to use a turkey bones. Cover bones in a pot of water and simmer for about an hour or two. Remove scum as required, and do not boil. Discard the bones (making sure you’ve strained out the tiny bits that sometimes break away from the main body.) Add about 4 cups of chicken stock to the pot, 1 c of rinsed white rice, and simmer for another hour or so. Rice should dissolve into a creamy consistency. Add salt and white pepper to taste. Garnish with finely chopped green onions, grated ginger with soy sauce and lashings of toasted sesame oil. (The liquid to rice ratio should be about 8c-10c of stock to 1 c of white rice.)

6. Turkey Quesadilla – on one half of a soft tortilla, add shredded cheddar, shredded turkey, diced tomatoes, and a handful of chopped cilantro. Fold in half and grill under a pannini maker until the outside is crispy and toasted and the filling has warmed through.

7. Turkey Waldorf Salad – if you have fairly large amounts of turkey left over, this is probably one of the first recipes you should think of. Traditionally, Waldorf is made with chicken but around our house, one side of the turkey breast is enjoyed at dinner and a full half is left behind. This is a great way to use turkey. Mix 1 cup of cubed turkey with 1 c of diced apple, 1/2c celery crescents, and 1/4c Thompson raisins with about 1/2c of mayonnaise (or 1/4 c of mayonnaise and light sour cream each.) Serve over Boston lettuce.

8. Turkey pot pie

9. Fried rice with turkey

10. Turkey stews of all kinds: chilis, stews, cacciatores, and turkey a la king.

What To Do With... Anchovies

Okay, so maybe you were hoping for another ingredient... maybe, pine nuts or something a little more fashionable, but it's anchovies this week. Don't stop reading okay? Just hear me out.

Anchovies do have a bad rap. They are too often maligned with noses upturned at the mere mention of this salty, humble ingredient. But why? Sure, they are not the most attractive things, and sure, they are incredibly salty and also a bit fishy, but who says you have to eat them out of the can? Maybe anchovies were never meant to be in a starring role, but I think they make a great supporting cast member. Think of anchovies as Rob Schneider to a main ingredient's Adam Sandler. So maybe you weren't supposed to have an anchovy sandwich, but just maybe anchovies are supposed to be a great sidekick.

Indeed, there are many delicious uses for this flavour enhancer; just give it a try.

Some classic preparations of anchovies include:

1. Ceasar salad: mashed into the dressing, its form is indiscernible but its presence is unmistakeable.
2. Spaghetti puttanesca : add 3 or 4 anchovy fillets into your next tomato sauce, add sliced black olives, 1 can of flaked tuna and warm thoroughly. The anchovies melt away leaving a rich taste of the ocean.
3. Jannssen’s Temptation : this is ridiculously delicious and simple to make. It’s basically scalloped potatoes with a layer of onions and anchovies. Bake until golden and bubbly.
4. Bagna Cauda: Warmed dip of olive oil, butter, anchovies, garlic, parsley, chilli flakes for dipping raw (carrots, celery or radishes) or cooked vegetables (such as baby potatoes, baby corn or artichokes)

With the holiday season upon us, don't waste your money on insipid preservative-laden commercial tapenades. Make this sweet and salty tapenade instead:

5. Fig and olive tapenade : In a food processor, whiz up 1/4c capers, 1 c of pitted black olives, 1/4 c olive oil, 1/4c balsamic vinegar, 10 dried black mission figs roughly chopped, 4 anchovy fillets, 1/4c red onion – until chopped finely. Serve with cheese and crackers.


(Fig olive tapenade a top of triple creme pictured above. Sinful but delicious.)

6. Sauteed rapini and chilli flakes : sauté 2 cloves of garlic (minced), 1 pinch of chilli flakes, and 3 anchovy fillets. Add half bunch of chopped rapini and sauté until rapini is bright green and wilted slightly.
7. Steamed asparagus with lemon caper and anchovy butter – toss steamed asparagus with a mixture made of the zest and juice of one lemon, 1 tbsp capers drained, 2 anchovies finely minced, and 1 tbsp butter.

If you’re feeling particularly brave:

8. Smear it on hot toast instead of butter.
9. Add to pizza
10. Add to pesto

There see? That wasn't so bad. You can do it! Anchovies are a great second fiddle.

What To Do With... Evaporated Milk

For my American friends, it’s Thanksgiving this weekend which means it’s turkey time. It has been several years since I have celebrated American Thanksgiving, but I think it’s a great four day holiday. Mostly because I love the rituals of Thanksgiving: rushing around the grocery store, baking pie, preparing this glorious meal and of course, coming together with friends and family. And don’t forget the post-Thanksgiving ritual of groaning with some regret, but mostly with pleasure after eating way too much turkey and stuffing, then loosening your belt to finish off the meal with a nice slice of pumpkin pie.

Evaporated milk is the ingredient of the week because it is used in one of my favourite Thanksgiving foods, pumpkin pie. I usually have several cans in my pantry because it is such a versatile product. They wait patiently to be called upon for a last minute panna cotta or when I have run out of regular stuff.

Evaporated milk is exactly what you think it is - fresh milk that has been reduced, in this case, by at least half. The result is a shelf stable product that has a rich, creamy taste. It serves a great substitute for fresh milk as well as cream. However, you cannot use evaporated milk interchangeably with cream due to difference in nutritional composition. (Think of evaporated milk as a concentrated dairy product.) I use it primarily to enrich foods where you would normally use milk or cream, when I don’t want all the calories. Additionally, the colour of evaporated milk is the palest caramel so it won’t do if you are making something that is supposed to be white.



Be sure you check the can – condensed milk, which usually makes an appearance in a smaller sized can with a pull-off tab, is not the same thing. While it is absolutely delicious, condensed milk is something else altogether.

Here’s what to do with evaporated milk.

It works as a fine substitute for milk in the following types of recipes:

1. Creamy type soups:Broccoli Potato Soup or Corn Chowder
2. Cheese sauce for broccoli or cauliflower
3. Mashed potatoes and scalloped potatoes
4. Rice pudding (It’s such an old-fashioned dessert, but I love the creaminess velvety smoothness of rice pudding that just seems to melt in your mouth. A pinch of cinnamon and oh yum.)
5. Bread pudding

Or you try something a little different:

6. Panna cotta
7. Mexican style flan – super easy, for clumsy dessert hands like me

But don’t forget the Classic Dessert Preparations:

8. Custard
9. Fudge

and of course,

10. Pumpkin pie

Enjoy giving thanks everyone!

What To Do With… Cilantro

No other herb evokes a more emotional response than the citrusy, fruity cilantro. Some people loathe it so much that even the smallest bits can ruin a night. Others, however, would give it a hero's welcome by throwing a ticker tape parade. And most definitely, I belong to the latter camp.

Cilantro is also one of those vegetables with many names: coriander, Chinese parsley, or Mexican parsley. In fact, at the grocery store today, when the cashier inspected the bagged leaves, it prompted me to say, “It’s cilantro.” I caught tiniest huff under her breath when she replied, “Actually, it’s coriander.”

Either way, it's delicious.

Most recipes call for only the smallest snippets of cilantro, but it’s sold in these glorious bouquets. After it has served its original purpose and is only but a delicious memory, the remaining leaves wilt away in my crisper forgotten. Perhaps its human nature to forget about herbs after they have served their initial purpose. But is that any way to treat such a loyal, easy going friend? It seems like a downright shame especially when it is so easily paired with seafood, Mexican cuisine and citrus.



1. Cilantro pesto: This is truly a summertime delight when cilantro is bushy and brimming out its spot in the garden. I always have pine nuts and extra virgin olive oil on hand, so this is easy to whiz up in the food processor and put into tiny freezer bags for a later date. When I want to use it, I just defrost, shave parmesan on top and toss with hot pasta.

2. Cilantro vinaigrette: Another quick use for bits of cilantro (stems and all) is to throw it into a dressing. Whiz a handful of cilantro, with 1 part lemon juice, 2 parts olive oil, salt and pepper to taste. Pour over a fresh salad or over boiled new pototatoes.

3. Lime Cilantro Compound Butter: Mix 1 stick of room temperature butter with a handful of cilantro finely minced (no stems), a squeeze of lime juice and the zest of one lime. Mix until fully incorporated. Pack into a ramekin or turn mixture out onto parchment paper and roll into a thick log (about 1 1/2” log.) Return to the fridge until solid. Add a pat to a grilled steak or hot steamy brown rice. Store the rest in the freezer until needed.

4. Fresh salsa: Slice and seed 4 roma tomatoes, dice into smallish squares. Add a 1/4c of finely diced red onion, 1 tsp of cumin, 1 half jalapeno, seeded and diced finely and about 1/2c chopped cilantro, and juice from 1 lime. Grind salt and pepper to taste.

5. Tabouleh Salad: Substitute part or all of the parsley of a tabouleh salad with cilantro for a different and fresh note.

6. Cilantro rice: Cook 1 cup of rice as per instructions. Toss hot rice with 1 cup of chopped cilantro (leaves and stems) and juice of one lime. (I have done the same with vermicelli rice noodles as well, and it’s so good.)

7. Cold Avocado Soup: This recipe was a great use for leftover buttermilk and a ripe avocado and it goes the same for cilantro.

8. Tuna fish sandwich: Mix 1 can of drained tuna (I like to plurge at times and buy the Italian tuna), with 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise (or drained yoghurt), add ¼ c of chopped cilantro leaves, 1/8 tsp of cumin, and salt and pepper to taste.

9. Add to salad: Consider tossing in a handful of roughly chopped cilantro to your next salad. It adds another dimension in flavour to salads and you can use less dressing with this flavour boost.

10. As a garnish extraordinaire: when there is fresh cilantro in the fridge, a great way to get use out of it is to add it as a garnish: guacamole, Vietnamese pho, vermicelli rice bowls, stir frys, and curries.

What To Do With... Fennel aka Anise

Let me introduce you to a good friend of mine, Fennel. Fennel, this is everybody. (I had planned to publish this great photo for our introductions today, but when I saw it on the preview, I knew it wouldn't do. So, unfortunately, we have to go without today...) (Updated November 18th, 2008 - Hungry Gal note: A photo is worth a 100 words...)



Fennel and I only met in my twenties but I feel like we have been friends forever. Fennel sometimes goes by the name Anise and is a hearty but delicate tasting vegetable. It smells lovely and herbaceous and has a mild liquorice flavour that further mellows when cooked. But we almost didn’t become friends. In my younger years, I was too haughty and impetuous, “I am not going to like fennel.., I’ll pass.” But then we met, and I realized I was wrong and now, all is forgiven and we are pals.

So, if you see Fennel at the market, I encourage you to buy a bulb or two and try it. You just might like it.

Fennel is great raw or braised. With a sophisticated yet mild flavour, it’s more versatile than you think. It’s great with rich foods like cream and butter and also pairs beautifully with seafood.

Basic Preparation:
Cut off the fronds and stalks and put aside if you wish, for garnish and stock. Trim the fennel by trimming the bottom of the bulb and cutting the fennel in half. Now that it is in a manageable size, you can dice it, slice it thinly or cut it into large chunks.

Some ideas for Fennel:

Roasted
1. Roast it: Slice thinly and toss with olive oil and herbs. Bake in an oven at 400 degrees until roasted.
2. Roast it with other vegetables: Toss in olive oil and roast with other vegetables such as peppers, onions, and zucchinis. Bake in a 400 degree oven until the vegetable’s edges are crisped while the rest of the vegetable soften.

Au Gratin:
3. Baked it: Slice paper thin and add to a potato gratin with crispy bacon

Raw in a Salad:
4. Throw it in a salad: dice raw fennel and add to your next salad (alongside some juicy tomatoes, and buttery boston lettuce)
5. Shave it: Shave fennel and plate with oranges and blue cheese salad (similar to my raw beet salad)

Braised:
6. Braised it: Cut in large chunks and braise in white wine with leeks or onions
7. Serve it as a main dish: Braise in white wine, with chicken thighs, cannellini beans, tomatoes and onions.

With Seafood:
7. Steam it with mussels: Dice and toss into a moules mariniere (steamed mussels)
9. Saute it: Slice thinly and saute with butter and served with a portion of salmon
10. Throw it in a crab linguine: Dice and cook in a crab linguine pasta dish. Here’s one to try out, add about 1/2c diced fennel when sautéing the garlic and chillies. http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/linguinewithcrab_66026.shtml

If there is an ingredient you would like to see for future, drop me a line! Suggestions are always welcome.

What To Do With…. Buttermilk

Buttermilk is a rich tasting, delicious and low fat dairy product that adds tang to foods. It is a highly versatile ingredient that is used in many applications including baking (cakes, scones, pancakes, and waffles), as a dressing, and as a tenderizer for meats.

I bought the smallest carton of buttermilk to bake a cake, but at one litre, it’s far more buttermilk than I really need…

So, here are ten ways I use buttermilk in my everyday recipes:

1. Mashed potatoes: Instead of using cream or milk, substitute buttermilk
2. Steamed potatoes: When I was in France, a friend served me this really simple dish. Season about half a cup to a cup of buttermilk with salt & pepper and snippets of chives, pour over hot steamy potatoes (quantity depends on the amount of potatoes and how much you want to use)
3. Fruit Smoothie: Blend 1½c of buttermilk with 1 cup of frozen fruit, add honey to sweeten
4. Cold avocado soup: Puree a ripe avocado with buttermilk, season with salt pepper and cumin, thin with additional buttermilk (if necessary) and garnish with cilantro
5. Marinade for breaded chicken: In a glass baking tray, marinate chicken in buttermilk overnight. Pat dry before breading and proceed as usual.
6. Ranch dressing: Mix 1 c of buttermilk, 1/2c mayonnaise, snipped chives and dill, ½ clove of minced garlic, salt and pepper
7. Buttermilk ice cream: Great with intensely sweet desserts like dark chocolate cake

For baking you can substitute buttermilk for recipes including:
8. Blueberry muffins
9. Scones
10. Pancakes

What To Do With…. Romanesco Broccoli

A new feature I am introducing to my blog is “What To Do With…”

I believe people are inclined to try new foods, but they don’t know what to do with it or what it tastes like. Or alternatively, they know one or two recipes for a particular ingredient, but don’t know what else it can be used for. My goal for My Kind of Food is to have a repertoire of great handy ideas and sometimes recipes that will encourage you to try something new or to use an ingredient in a new way.

If there is an ingredient you would like to see for future, drop me a line! Suggestions are welcome.

My favourite part of going to the market is discovering something seasonal and fleeting. Something you can only savour at a special time of the year. Right now, the markets are carrying the Romanesco broccoli. It’s a really unusual looking thing. It looks like something out of a sci-fi movie: lurid lime-green colour, angular shape and a bumpy surface like that of an uninhabited planet. But if you think of it like any old broccoli or cauliflower, you'll find it's really simple to cook and enjoy.

The Romanesco is very similar to the cauliflower in both taste and texture and therefore, any preparation you use for cauliflower would be just as nice for the strange looking vegetable.

Some ideas of what to do with Romanesco:

1. Steamed and served with a béchamel or cheese sauce
2. Roasted with smoked paprika and butter
3. Made into a gratin with gruyere and cream
4. Sautéed with garlic and olive oil
5. Steamed and pureed into a soup